Friday, April 13, 2012

Anniversary in Kyoto

One of the wooden wall at Nijo Castle.It has been almost 4 months now since our trip to Japan and yet I keep coming back to it, trying to write more and more about it. As I’ve said many many times before, this vacation of ours was amazing. And even the smallest references to Japan in our everyday lives fill up my heart with warmth. We’ve been to many places there that became special to us and one such place was Kyoto.


Originally we planned to stay in Osaka and make a couple of day visits to Kyoto. The express train ride was from 15 to 30 minutes long which is much shorter than our ride to Manhattan is. But later on we thought that Kyoto would be a great and very romantic place to spend our anniversary day and night at.

To make it even more special we made a reservation for a stay in Nishiyama Ryokan — a traditional Japanese inn — for the night of November 23rd. The stay also included a traditional Japanese dinner on the eve of 23rd and a breakfast on the morning of 24th. It also happened so that our anniversary of November 23rd fell on the same day as a national holiday in Japan.

Subway station.Our plan was simple — take a bullet train to Kyoto in the morning of the 23rd, buy the daily passes for Kyoto subway and buses and spend 2 days exploring the city with a stay and celebration in the above mentioned ryokan. We had the luxury of leaving all our bags in Osaka at our Hilton hotel, since we had a room there booked and paid for anyhow. And that’s exactly what we did.


On the early morning of our anniversary day we ate breakfast at our hotel buffet and soon after got on the train the schedule of which we confirmed via Hyperdia website — our JR station in Osaka was right across the street from our hotel.

Nijo Castle grounds.We got slightly confused by the signs at the station, since they were not specifying Kyoto on the train that we were supposed to take. When we asked for confirmation at the entrance booth we were told to take some other train which would get us to Kyoto later than the one we were thinking of taking.

It turned out that the sign at the station was actually specifying the last stop of the train (which makes sense) and Kyoto was one of the stops before that. So we did hop on the train that we planned to take and it worked out just right. In a little more than 20 minutes we were standing at the main Kyoto JR station right in the heart of Kyoto itself.

Inside Kyoto JR station.Our first order of business was to buy our passes for the local trains and buses — JR basically doesn’t have any lines to any of the places that we wanted to visit and we thought that instead of making it hard on ourselves by trying to calculate the cheapest and the correct fare to all the places we wanted to visit we would rather spend a little bit more money and just buy a pair of unlimited passes.

Inside Kyoto JR station.The option that we chose was a 2-day pass covering two main subway lines and most of the city buses for ¥2,000 per person. That came out to about $50 for both of us and gave us the freedom of hopping on as many buses and trains as we wanted.

After spending ¥4,000 on the passes we came to a sad realization that we had about ¥1,000 left. To put that into perspective a can of soda or tea typically costs ¥150. We had dollars, but when in Japan dollars are only good to purchase yen. So we needed to find an exchange place. And from what we read the best place to exchange money was a post office. And to our surprise there was one right outside the station.

Staircase at one of the subway stations.We walked into the post office and asked a man at the counter if they do currency exchanges. He confirmed that typically they do, but today being a holiday the bank portion of the post office was closed. We went back into the station which had a large underground mall inside and tried to find another currency exchange place. It was too early in the morning and all of them were closed. In addition to that at the information desk we were told that chances are that they are closed for the day because of the holiday.

We found an ATM machine and tried using our ATM card, but the machine told us that our bank declined the transaction. We found a couple more — some were in Japanese and we could not use, and the ones that were in English kept saying the same thing as the first one did. It was becoming obvious that we had no way to get money, the entrances to all the places that we wanted to visit are not free and that this “little” debacle might just ruin our day.

Golden Pavilion

Bus to Kinkakuji.We still decided to take our chances that we’ll have enough money and go to Kinkakuji — Golden Pavilion. We needed to go to the northern end of Karasuma subway line which goes right through Kyoto JR station and from there get on the right bus — no direct subway service, hence the need for bus pass. Luckily for us we had it all planned in advance and had detailed directions on how to get there.

On the bus.We went to Kitaoji Station (15 minute ride) and there we asked for direction on how to find the buses. Turned out that there was a bus terminal right at that station and each bus stop had a list of bus numbers and places that the bus stops at — this made things very easy. Soon after we were on a bus where we were pleasantly surprised to learn that each bus stop also has an English name on the sign. Plus it appeared that a most people were going to the same place as we were, so we had no problem getting off at the right stop.

Temple map.And from the stop we just followed all the people to the temple. Funnily enough a number of locals, when spotting us, were instantly pointing out the direction to go to for us even though we weren’t asking. Also there were maps on the way on which the temple was marked by a swastika symbol. In Japan swastika is an ancient sign of the sun and even though there is a lot of bad stigma associated with the symbol in the west it is still widely used in Japan.

Near the entrance to Kinkakuji.When we got to the entrance to the temple grounds we were relieved to find out that the entrance would cost us ¥400 per person or in other words pretty much as much money as we had in our pockets. Also upon getting inside we were surprised by how crowded the place was — tourists from Japan and all over the world. We were having a hard time getting to the fence to see the temple.

Crowd at Kinkakuji.Forget about taking a good photo. Matters were further complicated by all the dark clouds covering the sky which meant that in order for me to take a beautiful photograph I had to rest my camera on something for an HDR burst. However I was lucky enough to find a good place on the wooden fence and as a result I managed to capture the Golden Pavilion and an illusion of tranquility that this place would project if all the people would suddenly disappear.

Golden Pavilion — Kinkakuji.We started walking along the path that would take us through the territory and were soon stopped by a shy Japanese girl (15 years old maybe?) apologizing and asking if she could talk to us. We noticed her nervous classmates nearby and her teacher encouraging her to be brave. Turns out she had a school project where she needed to find foreign tourists and ask them (us) several questions in English.

Kinkakuji.She had a hard time writing down our names, but was happy to find out that we were from New York — a familiar word that she knew how to write. She asked us several more questions and asked to take a photograph with us. We should have asked the same in return, but it didn’t occur to us at the moment.

Here we are.She was very happy and quite relieved that she has completed her project. It seemed that she was the first and the bravest out of her class. I think in their culture it’s a hard barrier to cross — to “bother” somebody. But it was no bother for us and we were glad we could help.

Kinkakuji.After that we covered the whole path rather quickly and decided to leave the temple grounds. If the place would be serene and quite we would probably spend much more time here, but since it was so crowded we decided to get out of the mob of tourists and just walk around city street. Plus there was nothing else we could do since we had no money to get into the next place we wanted to visit anyhow.


Russian cartoon character — Cheburashka — seem to have taken over Japan.We spent over an hour walking through the streets. On our way we discovered several small temples, a whole bunch of closed banks, a number of restaurants for which we had no money and even got rejected at a local McDonald’s — they do not take credit cards.

Hirano Shrine.We were getting somewhat tired and hungry, so we decided to get back on the bus and go to our hotel. Remembering how there should be Wi-Fi available I thought that maybe we’ll try to call our bank and ask them to unblock our debit card for us in Japan. The bus took us to the same subway station that we were at when we got here. There we took a train back to the center of the city — the central station called Karasuma Oike. Here we jumped onto another train line called Tozai and went one stop to the east. Our hotel was located two blocks away. Very convenient and right in the center of the city.

Typical Kyoto street. This one leads to our hotel.To get to our hotel we had to walk along a tiny street. There was enough space for a single car to fit and there was no sidewalk — we just had to walk along the road itself. Our hotel was easy to find and even though its entrance had a historically old look the building was quite modern. It was just decorated as an older structure. When inside we were greeted by friendly staff, but we were told that they can keep our bags (we had none), yet check in only happens later in the day — it was still too early.

We asked them about currency exchanges and they gave us map which was listing all the banks in the area, but as with other ones — they were all closed. I got on their Wi-Fi network and tried to dial 1-800 number on the back of my debit card via Skype. That didn’t work. So I called my sister, explained the situation, gave them all my information and asked her fiance to call the bank and to pretend to be me. They were keeping him on hold for a long time and we decided not to wait for it to work out and just went out to explore the area.

Street mall.On the map here we saw a long long street that was covered with a roof and littered with all kinds of shops, restaurants and temples. These malls seems to be a popular type of thing in Japan as we saw these kinds of places in several other cities. We walked there, but our mood was pretty sour by now. We wanted to drink, but couldn’t buy anything, we want to eat, but all the places only took cash and no credit cards. After walking through this mall for some time we were starting to feel down right depressed.

Then we saw a 7-11 with an ATM inside. We decided to try our luck again and see what happens. We were hoping that maybe Lenny was successful by now and managed to get our card unlocked. I inserted my card, entered my pin and requested a withdrawal of ¥10,000. The machine started thinking, dialing and then we heard a magical whirling sound lighting up a feeling of hope in us and then it spit out the money! We were ecstatic. Never before we loved 7-11 as we did at that moment.

Entrance to our ryokan.We took our new found fortune and proceeded to buy some food. Alёna got herself some red bean ice-cream which she keeps cursing to this day and I got myself some cross of a bun with meat and a wanton. It was the most delicious wanton-bun thing I ever ate. We got ourselves some juice and tea and were on our way back to the subway station to proceed with our plan. Lenny has saved our day and our anniversary.

Nijo Castle

Gates to the castle. Palace is inside.Nijo Castle was located only 2 subway stops away from ours. It was the first thing that we put on our list of things to see when we were planning our trip since it was so close to our hotel. The hunger was gone, we were “rich” and an ancient castle was awaiting us. We were in a great mood.

Nijo Castle.Nijo Castle itself was built somewhere in early 1600s and is currently designated a UNESCO world heritage site. The castle has several high walls surrounded by moats, multiple ponds and gardens and a large palace which served as the residence and office of the shogun. And visitors were allowed inside the palace.

On one of the guard towers.We were asked to give up our shoes at the entrance and were welcomed inside. There was no photography allowed in there, but it was a very interesting self-guided tour. First thing that we noticed was the sound that the floors make — nightingale floors. When people walk on them they make a high pitched melodic squeaking sound. If we didn’t read about this before we would think that the floors were simply old, but in reality they were specifically designed this way so nobody would be able to approach the shogun without being noticed.

View from the tower.Inside there was a large number of different rooms and each one had its purpose. They had mannequins dressed in kimonos in most of them displaying what normally would be happening — a dinner, a meeting and so on. Shogun was always protected by body guards that were hidden from view behind different kinds of doors and closets. The place was quite huge inside. It took us at least 20 minutes to walk through it.

One of the paths inside the castle grounds.Afterwards we walked around the territory of the castle looking at the gardens, ancient buildings and taking photographs. It was all so interesting and unusual. So many great moments and memories — I can’t say this enough.


The sun was starting to set, we were tired and we were getting ready for our special anniversary dinner — we had to get back to hotel by 7pm — the dinner takes a very long time to prepare and has to be served at a precise time. We got back to subway and soon after we were at our hotel. We were warmly greeted, they showed us around, made some green tea for us and we had our dinner.

Our room at Nishiyama Ryokan.For dinner there were only 2 of us there, we tried a lot of different and unknown things for us, drank some sake and had a great time. The room was very cozy, the breakfast in the morning was equally great and a tea ceremony that they performed for us was very special too. Alёna claims that it was the best tea she has ever had a chance to drink, although I myself didn’t like the taste — it was too bitter for me.

I’m running through this part because I’ve already written about the hotel and our dinner in much more detail earlier. I’m really glad that we decided to spend some extra money and book a room here. Maybe it’s not a 100% authentic ancient place, but it was a perfect place for beginners like us.

Tea ceremony.It’s a great tradition that we have — to do something special on each one of our anniversaries and this day is definitely one of the most memorable and unusual days to date.

Leave a comment

O.o teeth mrgreen neutral -) roll twisted evil crycry cry oops razz mad lol cool -? shock eek sad smile grin

За время японской поездки мы посетили довольно много мест: Токио, Киото, Нару, Осаку, Хиросиму и остров Миядзима. Токио, Осака и Хиросима дали нам возможность посмотреть на совеременную Японию; а на Миядзима, в Киото и Наре мы смогли представить себе как выглядела эта интереснейшая страна в прошлом. Итак, о местах, нас впечатливших.

Буддийский Храм Тодай-дзи

Todaiji Temple.Этот храм, находящийся в городе Нара и входядий в список всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО, является самым большим деревянным зданием в мире. Также в нём находится самая большая в мире бронзовая статуя Будды — в высоту она достигает почти 15 метров.

Todaiji Temple.Это место нам очень понравилось. Храм находится на территории большого парка, где есть еще другие святилища, пагоды, прудик, лес и целое море совершенно ручных оленей. Людей там тоже было много, как, впрочем, и во всех туристических местах где мы побывали. В основном посетители были японцами, хотя изредко встречались и европейские лица.

World's largest bronze Buddha.Здание Тодай-дзи и правда очень большое, с высокими потолками, толстыми колоннами и свирепыми деревянными охранниками, из века в век несущими свой пост у входа в храм. В одной из несущих колонн есть узкий проход, якобы соответствующий по размеру ноздре Будды, и тому, кто через него пролезет будет даровано просветление в следующей жизни. Мы видели целый отряд японских школьников, со смехом протискивающихся через это узкое отверстие. Несмотря на заманчивую награду, мы с Даней не решились последовать их примеру — было очевидно, что в отличие от тонких подростков мы бы там застряли.

Wooden warrior.Зато мы пожертвовали храму ¥1000 иен ($13.5 по тому курсу), а в благодарность за это имели возможность написать молитву / пожелание на одной из черепиц, которые пойдут на реставрацию крыши храма. Я пожелала здоровья, удачи и счастья всей нашей семье.

Signing a roof tile.Бронзовая статуя Будды тоже очень впечатлила. Она просто огромная, и мне даже сложно представить сколько труда (и бронзы!) ушло на её изготовление и установление.

Japanese kids wanted to take a picture of them with Alёna onto their camera.А еще перед нашим уходом из храма со мной попросила сфотографироваться небольшая группа японских школьников. Меня это несколько удивило и где-то польстило. Наверное, моя внешность (и рост) для них были необычны.

Замок Нидзё

Nijo Castle.Этот замок, расположенный в Киото и так же являющийся одним из обьектов всемирного наледия ЮНЕСКО, когда-то принадлежал сёгунам из рода Токугава. Нидзё состоит из несколькоих построек, воздвигнутых на солидного размера территории окружённой каменными стенами и рвами с водой. На территории также есть небольшой пруд и несколько садов.

Us at Nijo Castle.Главное здание, дворец Ниномару, имеет очень необычные “соловьиные” полы, которые “поют” при ходьбе. Я не уверена как строители добились такого эфекта, но знаю, что главной функцией таких полов была охранная — по таким говорливым полам невозможно было незаметно подобраться к сёгуну. Сам дворец оказался очень большим. К сожалению, в нём нельзя было делать фотографии или видео, так что придётся ехать туда самолично чтобы взглянуть на это необычное место и услышать как дерево заливается соловьиными трелями.

Кинкаку-дзи или Золотой Павильон

Kinkakuji. Golden Pavilion.Этот буддийский храм на мой взгляд является одной из самых узнаваемых японских достопримечательностей. Находится он в Киото. К сожалению, историческое здание было сожжено в 1950 году одним монахом-шизофреником. К счастью, в 1955 храм был восстановлен, а последние реставрационные работы были завершены в 2003 году.

Нам не очень повезло с погодой, но даже при хмуром небе павильон заманчиво сверкал своими золотыми боками и вызывал восхищение громадного количества туристов. Мне место понравилось, хотя посетителей не подпускали к строению слишком близко. Тропинка, куда нас пускали, была короткой, а народа было очень много, поэтому мы довольно быстро покинули окружности Кинкаку-дзи. Мне думается, что без толпы я бы с удовольствием погуляла там подольше, потому что место всё же красивейшее.

Синтоистское Святилище Фусими Инари

Fushimi Inari Shrine.Это место находится в Киото и примечательно очень большим количеством выкрашенных в красный цвет ритуальных врат тории. Тысячи этих врат составляют своеобразные тропинки, которые ведут на священную гору Инари. Так же на территории принадлежащей святилищу можно увидеть много статуй лис — такой почёт этим рыжим хитрецам оказан потому что по преданию они являлись посланцами синтоистской богини изобилия и риса Инари.

Мы не очень долго ходили по огороженным тории тропинкам — желания, да и времени уходить далеко в гору не было. Я видела фотографии этого места до нашей поездки, но меня немного удивил размер многих врат — они были довольно невысокими и я с лёгкостью могла дотянутся рукой до верхних перекладин.

Святилище Ицукусима

Itsukushima Shrine.Это святилище тоже входит в список всемирного наследия ЮНЕСКО и находится на острове Миядзима. Главной достопримечательностью этого места являются врата тории, которые стоят прямо на воде. Эти священные врата, достигающие в высоту 16 метров, и правда смотрятся очень необычно. Меня их своеобразное одиночество и общий символизм (врата-граница/вход) навели на мысли о вещах вечных — рождении, любви, смерти, пути, цели, смысле.

И врата, и остров мне очень понравились. Мы немного побродили по округе, полюбовались на воду, поели очень вкусных паровых булочек с мясом, посмотрели как готовят какую-то местную сладость. Вобщем, от Ицукусимы у меня осталась куча позитива.

Мемориал Мира в Хиросиме

Atomic Bomb Dome.У меня были смешанные чувства по поводу поездки в Хиросиму. С одной стороны место известное, а с другой всё же жутковато ходить по земле, где не так давно мнговенно погибли тысячи людей.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park.Мы посмотрели на Купол Гэмбаку или так называемый “атомный купол” — здание, которое находилось всего в 160 метрах от эпицентра взрыва, но тем не менее не было полностью разрушено. Этот мемориал был внесён в список всемирного наследия Юнеско в 1996 году. Честно говоря, в голове как-то не укладывались исторические реалии этого места, да и думать об этом слишком много не очень хотелось.

Мы так же прогулялись по парку, частью которого является атомный купол, помолчали минутку у вечного огня и посмотрели на братскую могилу. Там с нами пообщались три японки-христианки среднего возраста (они хотели нам вручить какую-то религиозную литературу) — у одной из них родители находились в Хиросиме во время ядерного взрыва. Им повезло (хотя в данной ситуации это звучит несколько иронично) — они не только пережили это страшное событие, но и дожили до весьма преклонного возраста (мама это женщины до сих пор жива).

Замок в Осаке

Osaka Castle.Посещение этого замка не входило в наши изначальные планы, но я рада, что мы таки туда добрались. Замок этот горел и страдал от разных бед не единожды, но японцы каждый раз его восстанавливали. Зная, что интерьер замка на данный момент не исторический, а вполне модерновый, внутрь мы не пошли (сие удовольствие стоило денег). Вместо этого мы полюбовались на 5-этажного красавца снаружи, побродили по окрестностям, купили кое-какие сувениры, поели мороженное — вобщем, получили удовольствие.

В окрестностях замка мы наблюдали интересную картину. Два пожилых японца удили мелкую рыбёшку в небольшом озерце и скармливали её терпеливо ждущим обеда котам. Коты тёрлись о ноги рыбаков и всячески выказывали им свою любовь. Нам до того понравилось это зрелище, что мы простояли там минут 5-10.


Tofukuji Temple.В это место, расположенное в Киото, мы отправились чтобы посмотреть яркие осенние цвета. Если честно, были немного разочарованы: во-первых, там были слишком много народа и чтобы посмотреть на какие-либо виды надо было проталкиваться сквозь толпу; во-вторых, сами виды не показались нам чем-то таким уж особенным. Мы прошлись по мостику, прогулилялись вдоль небольшого пруда, обошли вокруг сад камней (zen garden), и отправились восвояси. Думаю, что если бы не было толпы, а осенние цвета успели бы войти в свой пик, то нам бы там понравилось гораздо больше.

Храм Мейдзи

Этот храм является самым большим синтиостским святилищем в Токио и расположен в огромном парке. Попали мы туда в наш первый полный день в Японии. Было воскресенье, стояла отличная погода, и в парке было много посетителей. Многие японцы, особенно дети, были одеты в традиционную одежду. Из того что мы поняли, в этом храме часто проходят свадьбы (при входе в храм даже есть табличка с просьбой людей, не участвующих в каком-либо свадебном процессе, внутрь не входить), а свадьба — это хороший повод одеть кимоно.

Traditional wedding.Кстати, мы заметили, что многим японкам присуща характерная, несколько косолапая походка. Мне кажется, что происходит она от ношения гэта — традиционных японских сандалей, одинаковых для обеих ног. Мне кажется, что ходить в них очень неудобно, но японки довольно ловко в них вышагивают. Мы не раз видели специальные носки для этой обуви, напоминающие по принципу варежки, где большой палец получает отдельный отсек.

Park where Meiji Shrine is located.Еще возле храма мы омыли руки и прополоскали рты, зачерпнув воду деревянной плошкой из специального каменного бассейна. Такие бассейны мы видели возле всех синтоистских святилищ, но только возле храма Мейдзи мы увидели еще и инструкцию процедуры омовения, написанную по-английски (взять плошку в левую руку, омыть правую руку, потом левую, потом прополоскать рот).

Еще в этом парке мы полюбовались самыми разными хризантемами, которые, если я не ошибаюсь, являются императорским цветком и весьма почитаются коренными жителями.

Конечно, в Японии есть еще много прекрасных мест, где мы не побывали. Я надеюсь, что когда-нибудь мы снова туда попадём, и еще раз получим возможность полюбоваться прелестями страны восходящего солнца.

Leave a comment

O.o teeth mrgreen neutral -) roll twisted evil crycry cry oops razz mad lol cool -? shock eek sad smile grin