Nothing remarkable happend during the journey to Munich itself. We have preordered our train tickets online before heading to Germany which was the right thing to do. In Italy we had to stop at a major train station to book our tickets in advance, but the train station itself was on our way. In Germany it was not the case, and everything worked out well. I didn’t even have to print anything out. I just installed an app on the phone that loaded the proper barcodes into itself and that’s what we showed to conductors.
The trip itself takes about 6 hours. We got to see some country side through the windows of the train with tiny towns and old castles. We tried German train food — something between a pizza and a sandwich in one and of course drank some beer. By the time we got to Munich it was already dark outside, so we didn’t really do much in the evening.
We checked into the hotel which was quite a bit more modest than the one in Berlin. They did leave us a €50 bottle of champagne and some chocolate covered fruit because of our anniversary. We went outside to find some food for dinner and after walking around we didn’t find any German restaurants — only Italian ones.
So instead of going into a sitdown place we grabbed a pair of gyros to-go at a local fast food Turkish place. To our surprise the only available gyro was chicken and the guy told us that lamb in Germany is very expensive. I’m not sure if it’s true, but chicken gyro ended up being not good. That was the worst dinner of our trip, but we did fill up on nice little snacks at an executive lounge of our hotel.
The plan for our first full day in Munich was to explore the city center starting with the main square called Marienplatz. For some reason I originally thought that we would need to figure out how to use local transportation to get places, but turned out that the walk was less than a mile long to the very center. All Hilton hotels that we picked ended up having great locations for exploration.
Munich had a much more of an old look to it. It was also severely damaged during the war, but more older parts of the city survived and probably a lot of restoration was done. It had a lot of different churches and towers and castle-looking places.
Marienplatz was surrounded by churches. The centerpiece of the city is the old Neues Rathaus — even thought it’s called neues (new) it was built at the end of 19th century. It had an old gothic look to it.
One of the attractions of Rathaus is little play performed by mechanical dolls (Glockenspiel) at the center of the tower that can be viewed from the square down below. I imagine it was a technological marvel when it was built and to this day a bunch of silly looking tourists looking at it with open mouths and tilted back heads. We watched a little part of the play, but eventually got bored and moved on.
Our objective was to climb a tower across from Rathaus, even though there is an elevator in the main tower of Rathaus available for tourists. But we wanted to scale the tower across so we could take some areal pictures of Munich including the Rathaus itself.
The tower that we picked was a part of Saint Peter’s Church. There was one or another kind of churches located at that place starting from the 8th century. 299 steps later we had a magnificent view of Munich.
Sadly the weather did not want to cooperate and one of the iconic towers of Frauenkirche (kirche is church in German) was covered by construction scaffolding. But we still got some nice shots — one at the top of this article for example.
After the climb we were ready for a lunch at an old famous beer hall — Hofbräuhaus. Hofbräuhaus was originally built in 16th century, but probably not much remains of the original construction. The beer hall was full of people on the first floor. The enormous second floor was largely empty, but I’m sure that’s not the case during the month of October.
The place had all kinds of people inside. The most colorful were the older German men wearing traditional clothing drinking beer from their own gigantic beer mugs. And of course the place had tons and tons of tourists.
We read about some of the traditional Bavarian dishes beforehand and we wanted to try some of them. One such thing was a soup called Leberknödel. Even though it did look interesting it was too salty and we didn’t like it. We also ordered a Bavarian traditional finger sized wursts and of course wheat beer. Overall the food was just OK, but it was an experience.
On a side note a week after we came back from Germany we went to one of the local restaurants for dinner. I noticed that they changed the menu and have added German beer to it. I ordered a bottle and to my surprise it was beer from Hofbräuhaus with Hofbräuhaus on the sticker. The beer was not as good as our favorite Franziskaner, but it was a nice feeling having actually BEEN to the place on the sticker.
After Hofbräuhaus we walked through Viktualienmarkt (gourmet farmer’s market) to a church of a different type — Asamkirche. It was built in Baroque style and is located right between some other buildings — like a town house. So it’s quite surprising to walk inside and see its big interior.
That was pretty much our day. We went back to the hotel, got some drinks at the executive lounge and decided to go to some Italian for dinner after all — as I said before there were no other types of places nearby. We did pick some fancy place with some delicious buffalo mozzarella pizza. This was the only non-German place that we had a dinner at and it was the only place that wasn’t taking credit cards. As we found out about that after the fact we were glad that we had some cash on hand.
For our second day we originally planned to rent a car and go see some castles. We didn’t make any advanced reservations since there was a rental place right on the next block to our hotel. Or so I thought. A day before the trip I was making last checks and the place was nowhere to be found. So either it closed or I have no idea where I was looking. Long story short, we figured that we had plenty more things to do in Munich itself, so we canceled our castle road trip.
Instead we went to a different part of Munich called Englischen Garten (English Garden), a Central Park like place the center of which was located about 2 miles away from our hotel. The day was cold and gray again and by the time we reached the center of the park we were feeling pretty chilly suddenly. There was a street stand selling glühwein — spicy, warm red wine. Alёna said that she read about it in books, so we gave it a try. I didn’t like it at all and much better prefer warm apple cider or something similar, which they also had.
After our stroll through the park and small sidestreets we decided to go back to the center. On our way out of the park we spotted an interesting thing. There is some river or canal running through the park.
At one place this canal has something on the bottom of it which ends up making a big wave. The current is pretty strong. And right in that river, in this bone-chilling weather there was a bunch guys surfing. And they were very proficient at it, but nevertheless they did keep losing their balance eventually and having to get completely dunked into that water.
We did get back to the center and started looking for a place to eat dinner at. It was Thanksgiving, which is technically our anniversary, again. Originally we planned to go to Zum Franziskaner — restaurant held by the maker of our favorite beer. The reviews were mediocre, but we figured that we’d at least get Franziskaner beer coasters for our collection. However when we entered we actually noticed that they had something else on their tables. So instead of eating there I just quietly pocked a pair and we left.
Instead I remembered about another place that looked good. It was located on a large square in front of the Bavarian State Opera — Spatenhaus. Spatenhaus is another brand of beer. The menu looked good and the place had good reviews, so that’s where we went. Guess what kind of beer coasters they had? Franziskaner ones.
Our dinner was delicious. We ordered a hearty potato soup, sauerbraten (I think) and a super delicious bavarian duck — it was Thanksgiving after all and duck was the closest thing to turkey that we could get. And of course we got draft Franziskaner beer. As I said twice already — everything was delicious. One interesting thing that happened was that we had a basket of pretzels on the table and turns out they count how many pieces of bread you had eaten and charge you for each. A weird German thing.
On the way back to our hotel I saw another restaurant named after a beer that Zum Franziskaner used for coasters. Just out of curiosity I decided to walk inside and look at their coasters. Then an backward thing happened — immediately somebody asked if we wanted a table. Now this was a first in all of our trip. The only time when we actually didn’t need a table they offered us one. I saw a tack of coasters and asked if I could just have a pair of those. A grumpy man said that he would sell it to me for 400 euros, yet proceeded to give two of them to me. Guess what? Spaten beer coasters.
And that’s pretty much our Munich. I’m writing this post and smiling. It brings back such pleasant pleasant memories. The whole vacation was great and Munich definitely contributed to it being special.